TGO Challenge 2019
A beginner’s tale of highs and lows.
I had
failed to gain a place in an earlier lottery, and was assured a place should I
apply again. So, in the late 2018, it seemed the right thing to do. It’s many
years since I had the opportunity for an extended trek in the Highlands, and
the Challenge created that ‘groyne on the beach of the sands of life’ to make it happen. My
place confirmed, it was time to plan the crossing. There are lots of resources
to help and with some givens for me, the route soon unfolded.
I wanted to
travel by train, use “Gordon’s” ferry across Lock Lomond, finish in Montrose
and plan for a high level crossing of the Cairgorms NP.
The TGO
Challenge requires your route to be approved, with alternates for high routes
in case of poor conditions. Planning the
route in detail is just as much a part of the event as the crossing itself.
Arial imagery came into its own in seeking out prospective sites for overnight
stays. Indeed, it is often said that backpackers fall into two groups, those
that walk to camp, and those that camp to walk, me, I can't decide.
The route
accepted was Strathcarron – Cannich – Drumnadrochit – Aviemore – Braemar –
Ballater – Montrose , bagging a few munros where possible with a couple of high
level pitches.
Soon enough
the following May comes around, and with resupply packages sent, it’s time to
join others in the trek north to start.
Thursday 9th May
Seeking Local
Produce
Piling on
to the London bound train with a gaggle of commuters I feel distinctly at odds
with the ‘suits’. There are moments of me looking at them looking at me, each
thinking the other is in the wrong place. The sardine underground tube transit
to Kings Cross just reinforces why I’m running to the hills. LNER provides for
great service to Inverness, and while there must be other ‘Challengers’ on the
train I fail to spot them in the queue to board, but coincidently sit directly
across from such a companion.
Transiting
the Highlands, the snow covered peaks of the Cairngorm sow doubt that my high
level route may not be passable given my
winter gear is safely stored at home.
The planned
first day allowed for a Friday midday departure from Strathcarron , and so the
fleshpots of Inverness were there to be enjoyed on the Thursday night. A room
above the Black Isle Brewery Tap was available, and it seemed rude not to enjoy
the hospitality on offer from the Brewery based just outside Inverness. A good
night’s sleep in a comfortable bed was the plan, well half of that was true.
The bed was comfortable, but the penetrating low frequency hum from roof
mounted extraction fans mounted directly outside the window defeated my ear
plugs. I can sleep through flysheets thrashing, but that intrusive hum was a
different matter. The adjacent Wetherspoons provided for an economic curry before
returned to explore the range of Black Isle beers on tap. The demographic split
between the ‘youngsters’ in the Black Isle Bar and the ‘oldies’ in Wetherspoons
couldn’t have been more stark.
Friday 10th May
And So it Begins
16km 677m Ascent 322m Descent
No need to
set an alarm, plenty of time for a last shower before repacking the rucksack.
Wetherspoons’ breakfast with coffee, but pleased to see that that particular
microcosm in Inverness is similar to others in the land, where at least someone
will be sat there drinking beer. Wetherspoons have allowed nightshift workers
across the land to enjoy that after work drink previously restricted to those
early doors market workers.
The 9:00am
train was busy, ScotRail have managed to square the wrong circle. They seemed
to configure the seating in a way that means everyone ends up with little
legroom while having less seats per carriage than the southern operating
companies manage on their local services. I’m shoe horned in amongst a
variety of tourists, whisky and golf seems high on their agendas.
The train
runs to time, and arrives into Strathcarron just before 11:00am. On the
platform there are six of us looking for the sign out location of the
Strathcarron Hotel. Fortunately, with the hotel clearly visible from the
platform none of us had to suffer the ignominy of an immediate navigation
failure. The sign out was all very organised, with a pre printed list for all
those starting, a simple indication of the huge effort behind the scenes to
organise and run the events. My fellow challengers had to use all of their
influencing skills to liberate some coffee from a reluctant host , busy looking
at their watch and tutting about the chef has finished. I didn’t stay, but for
the chef seemingly to be involved in coffee making, I looked forward to
catching up as to its quality from participants later on the trail.
Heading out
to the hills was easy enough, assuming you can follow the ‘to the hill’ finger
posts , presumably installed to prevent many a hill goer attempting to walk
through the locals’ back gardens.
Strathcarron turned out to be an ideal start,
easy navigation on tracks and good paths, soon to leave signs of habitation
behind. The weather was excellent, with far reaching views over the surrounding
hills. Since my co-challengers were still enjoying their artisan coffees, and
those challengers who stayed overnight in Strathcarron had departed bright and
early so were way ahead of me, the land was my own, or so I thought. This
section is part of the Cape Wrath trail and a Canadian couple heading the other
way disrupted the tranquility for a time. On joining the recently improved
Bendronaig Lodge access track, (side effects of the plethora of micro
hydroelectric schemes) I encountered a fellow challenger from the USA
interrogating his GPS as to why the lodge wasn’t where he expected it to be. It
was a km further on, and his planned lunch stop. My Vetter suggested it too
would be a great refuge in poor weather, but with the poor weather forecast for
later in the day, I pressed on. Leaving the mini motorway as I split off to
skirt Loch Calavie and my planned overnight pitch. While it was only 15:00 ,
the spot in a Shieling was wonderfully flat , though offered little shelter
should unforecasted winds appear.
Backpacking is such a cameo of life, everything
stripped back. So here is a decision faced by all, do I take the opportunity
that is currently in front of me, or hold off in the optimism that there is something better around the corner?
I have
always held to the view that if what is in front of you meets or exceeds then
go for it ( jobs, girlfriends, prospective employees, houses, and of course
pitches).
Pitched,
water collected just in time for the first few raindrops heralding heavy
showers for the rest of the day. Evening entertainment was a series of Challengers passing by driving on towards Pait lodge.
Saturday 11th May
Snowy Munros
22km 1428m Ascent 1032m Descent
My Laser Comp tent can suffer from
condensation, but mods to increase the inner and fly separation have reduced the
chances of a refreshing shower. However, the humidity and stillness of the
night would have tested that arrangement to its capacity had nature not stepped
in and dropped the overnight temperatures such that all that condensation was
frozen solid. I eagerly awaited the sun tracking across the glen in front
of me. The remains of shieling walls were soon decked with sleeping bags, mats,
and all manner of things that looked more like an impromptu garage sale than
the contents of my rucksack. The snowy lesser summit of An Riabhachan (1040m) ,
with my access via its north slope to the ridge visible , shone enticingly in
the early morning sun.
Heading east,
a few of those that had passed the previous evening had stopped short of Pait
lodge and were now moving again, variously scattered across an apparently trackless
hillside. The OS map shows a track, that I assume has long since disappeared,
but there is always the doubt that while you’re thrashing through albeit
relatively dry bog, others have discovered the track and are quietly ambling
along. Pait Lodge, and its adjacent footbridge funnels us together where I
resist the urge to say I wandered across on a lovely dry track, and confirm
that we’ve all forged our own path.
South I go, on initially good tracks, but once
across the most southerly footbridge over Alt Riabhachan, I head upwards on the
north slope of the mountain from which it gains its name. Ariel imagery had me
believe there was a track of sorts, but it was impossible to locate on the
ground, and while going should have got easier on the higher slopes, the
combination of snow and fractured scree made progress slow until sufficient
snow depth built up to kick a way up to the initial summit. With such great visibility,
and a weekend, then it came as no surprise that I was soon sharing the route
with day trippers. The broad ridge to the true summit offered panoramic views,
though with air temperatures around 1C,
wind chill said this was no place for leisurely lunch. The final summit Sgurr
Na Lapaich (1150) was shared with a fellow Challenger before descending to
locate a spot to catch early morning sun near Loch Tuill Bhearnach. The descent
was helped by the snow in the gulley being soft enough for a heel kick
descent. A glorious 800m high pitch with views to just sit and watch, though an early evening hail ( more properly graupel) shower caused a retreat to the tent
for the day.
Sunday 12th May
Returning to
Civilisation
23.5km 516m Ascent 1265m Descent
A clear start to the day, with sun soon
tracking around to roast you out of the sleeping bag. To think that shortly
before departure, there was a moment of angst as to whether I should substitute
in my 4 season bag with all its knock on requirements for a bigger / heavier
rucksack etc. It would have been way overkill, and the last minute adds of
extra clothing layers wouldn’t last in the rucksack past today’s overnight stop
in Cannich. What are grouse doing this high, this early? Their croaking
sounding more like a lost frog than a bird. More overly sweet porridge and off
to summit the remaining munro of the set: Carn non Gobhar. I met a young couple
coming down , who asked whether I had just completed the ridge that morning, perhaps
I looked more knackered than I felt! With the early start the snow was still
frozen allowing for better progress to be made walking up the snow patches
before they thawed and you dropped through to your knees. Something reminiscent
of childhood with the glee of making your own footprints in the snow. Carn non
Goghar’s lesser summit (some 10m less) has the larger cairn, perhaps there is a
movement to make up that 10m? Tracked westward on the broad ridge much less
walked before disturbing herds of deer on the descent to a new micro generation
access road alongside Liatre Burn and a couple
of Challengers enjoying an extended break in the sun. The rest of the section
was on the shady metalled road, that seemed to go on and on. Not least because a
lazy look at the map convinced me that the road had to cross the river about
5km before Cannich , and I was still tramping along expecting the bridge to
appear soon, knowing that then I would be an hour out when a proper look showed
that in fact I was only 3km from the campsite. Around 15:00, reached the
central crossroads, nicely warm from the walk in in 20C, with the hardest
decision of the day. Right to the pub , or straight on to the campsite? Straight
on to pitch first. Cannich campsite is a large affair with lots of dedicated
sites, as well as larger open area. By the time I had arrived some 10 or Challenger’s tents were set up in the communal area. Reminded me of what I termed as the ‘penguin effect’
after the way that New Zealanders, with all the extensive country at their
disposal, seemed to love to camp cheek by jowl on crowded campsites. Perhaps
with time in the great outdoors, we are in fact a social species and enjoy the
close company of others.
Not for me,
ear plugs are for bothies not for camping where you can use distance to mitigate
nocturnal disturbances.
Off to the
local hostelry to sample local produce. Trying to minimise the coins of the
realm stealing precious grams of cargo allowance, payment by card is to be
sought where possible.
Conversation
with the barman: Can I pay by card? Sorry 10 GBP minimum charge. Can I run a
tab, I’d like to eat later. No, but you can run a tab when you eat ….
Monday 13th May
A day of three thirds
23km 560m Ascent 577m Descent
The campsite café provided for a leisurely
cooked breakfast, awaiting the opening of the post office for the return of
excess clothing. Other Challengers were wrestling with antlers to dispatch home, it
was not clear whether they had enjoyed the rest of the deer or not.
The majority seemed to have elected to indulge
in A831 billiards, where the speeding lorries adopted the role of the que ball,
while the Challengers tried to avoid being ‘potted’ into the ditch. A fellow traveler and I independently took a
more direct route via the chambered cairns of Corrimony. Thank goodness deer
seemed to know the best way across fairly boggy terrain such that I could
simply follow their trail. I say simply, where it was far from simple when we
entered the forest, a backpacker occupies a great volume than a fleeing deer so
trying to shimmy under fallen trees took limbo dancing to another level.
Re joining
the Affric Kintail way resulted in a trudge along forest trails, with only the
odd view of the remote hills. Spirits started to rise on the final third of the
day, except the forestry commission conspired to test us all. The direct route
was closed, and the diversion would have the Grand Old Duke of York rejoicing
as we trekked up hill and down in a seeming never ending circle with the day’s
destination of Drumnadrochit always just over the next horizon.
Finally, the descent is terminal and I emerge
onto the pavements of ‘Drum’, hot footing it to the hostel, well almost when
directly opposite was an oasis awaiting discovery. Fiddlers café bar &
restaurant with a wonderful selection of local beers, draft and in bottle.
Fellow travelers recounted how important it was that we support the local
economy, so I took one for the team and sampled their local produce without the
aid of a plastic straw. Eco credentials and a thirst satisfied in one sitting,
result!
The hostel
room offered the chance of a shower, some much needed gear washing, and to
collect my food parcel.
Back to
Fiddlers for wild venison (hmmm perhaps that’s where the antler collectors’
surplus ended up) , some great banter, and early bed.
Tuesday 14th May
Chasing Nessy
25km 795m Ascent 250m Descent
The local store opens at 6:00 , and by the time
I arrived around 7:00 the bacon was sizzling well. Coffee, bacon roll, and a
sunny bench outside to watch the world wake up. Clearly the owner knows their
business, as during my short stop, there wasn’t a lorry passing by that didn’t
stop for similar sustenance. Sausage rolls safely stowed for today’s lunch, and
a leg stretch along to Temple Pier and ‘Gordon’s Ferry’. Eleven of us gathered
for the crossing at the appointed hour, Gordon arrived with spreadsheets in
hand , and when all were accounted for , off we went. He recounted tales of
various heights as we journeyed across a placid Loch Ness, seemingly all too soon
it was time to disembark at the crumbling Inverfarigaig Pier. Gordon didn’t
return alone, two ducks that knew they were onto a good thing by joining us to
feed from Gordon’s bread stash on the outward trip, returned with him. They had
treated us to a demonstration of landing skills that many a navy pilot would
have been proud to possess.
The morning
had to be given over to road walking, but the initial section alongside the
babbling Allt Mor was a peaceful as you could wish for. Serenity was lost with
the B682 performing the lion’s share of the trek to foothills of Monadhliath
Mountains. Time to reflect on the
strangeness of local government policy when encountering a newly completed replacement
bridge. The policy must call for all new bridges to incorporate dedicated cycle lanes. So, there we have a
broad B road in the middle effectively nowhere, with not a pavement or cycle
way for miles enjoying a 50m section of dedicated track.
Finally
leaving the metalled road, signaled an opportunity to seek a pleasant lunch spot
before the winding ascent to the high moorland. The sausage rolls were
excellent, can’t say the same for the curried noodles (a late local forage
addition). I’m sure I must have missed the warning on the packet that was along
the lines of ‘guaranteed free from anything natural’. The effort required to
clean the pan afterwards indicated that they may have been better utilised as a
building material.
Clear skies
and the temperature nicely into the 20s, ensured that the ascent was dusty and
memorable. I had been advised that there was a shooting hut at the terminus of
the track that could provide shelter in rough weather, what I needed was a
nicely shaded veranda, seemingly not part of the standard hut architecture in
Scotland. With the track left behind, the path ascended up through a scattering
of grouse butts, to emerge onto peat groughs.
A bit of follow your nose navigation and soon
enough the watershed is crossed and the descent into Glen Mazeran located. In
normal Scottish weather, descending alongside a nascent water course involves
steering clear of enticing green patches, as these will surely be saturated and
lying in wait to fill your boots, but with this recent dry spell they all but
dry and put a real spring your step as you bounce along.
While still
early, the only thing to be gained by pressing on was a loss of lovely burnside
pitches.
As the sun
drops, the small trout entertain by leaping for the their dinner .. perhaps
they might jump straight into the pan?
A still
warm night , the hail and frozen condensation of earlier nights pales.
Wednesday 15th May
Electric Fences and
Nocturnal Adventures
22.4km 606m Ascent 739m Descent
Despite the
best of intentions, it is gone 9:00 before I’m packed, the early morning sun
creates no sense of urgency coupled with a lazy breakfast sat by the burn.
Maybe an alternate strategy for an earlier start might be to leave the bottle
marked with a ‘P’ out of reach overnight?
The track
becomes increasingly maintained toward the lower part of Glen Mazeran, but I’m
way too late to catch fellow Challengers still with their tents up. I encounter
the 1st group as we divert around Glen Mazeran Lodge. One of
their member is struggling with what later transpires to be a serious chest
infection requiring a helicopter ride to Inverness Hospital.
The open
moorland is a joy, but with clear skies and high sun seeking shade for a mid-morning
break is idea shared by others. The riverside trees by the bridge to Dalmigavie
Lodge already house a smattering of Challengers as I seek out a welcoming tree.
One of the unexpected joys of travelling within the TGO Challenge framework are
these Canterbury Tales moments, the random clumping that occurs as each wayfarer’s
journey overlaps for a short period before continuing at their own pace.
The subject
of the ‘electric’ fence arises, with discussion as to the effectiveness of the two
parallel fence approach, some think they are more human rather deer fences.
Either way , they run for miles, and need to be treated with respect. I’m
taking a more direct route, which gambles on finding gates through these fences
at convenient places. Ariel imagery would have you believe that the gates are
there, but who can be sure.
The initial gate can be seen from the track
onward from Dalmigavie Lodge so I leave my fellow travelers and head up through
the sheep to seek the second gate. Fortunately, everything works as planned,
and now through the fence, it is simply a matter of staying on the W side as it
runs its course across the hills. I spook a mountain hare , now without its
winter camouflage, it seems to adopt a well-rehearsed strategy of running
between the twin electric fences for a while, before stopping to watch and
listen. Once the fence leaves me to my
own devices, with such great visibility it is simply (I say simply, but the
terrain is anything but forgiving) a matter of heading for the end of the track
toward the Red Bothy aside the River Dulnain. The sun continues to ensure
seeking shade is a good idea, and again a shooting hut offers the chance to sit
out of its glare. Nicely settled in, a Challenger appears , somewhat flustered,
and I’m sure went past muttering “Oh my ears, I’m late, I’m late” , or maybe
I’ve overestimated my navigational ability and ended up down a rabbit hole. I
later learn that this hut is unlocked and had provided a handy wooden tent for
the someone else’s overnight stop.
My planned
stop is at the bottom of the final ascent on the Burma road to Aviemore. There
seems little to be gained from pressing on, a semi rest day is planned for
Aviemore with accommodation already booked for the following night.
Aside Alt
nam Moireach , I catch sight of the odd Challenger pushing on to clear
Aviemore, some looking to pass through the Lairig Ghru ahead of Saturday’s
forecast rain and increasing winds. My current schedule will mean that Saturday
will be munro bagging in the cloud and rain.
Thursday 16th May
And so it Ends
12km 318m Ascent 507m Descent
At 2:00am I awake feeling distinctly unwell,
shortly to eject what remains of a suspect lemon sponge pudding. Not tried this
variety before, and on opening the packet it didn’t look or feel particularly
dried. Any vestiges of sleep were interrupted by a local scanning the hillside
with a truck mounted searchlight, for whatever reason. At least Aviemore was
only 12km away, so after a slow pack up and a breakfast free start (there’s
always an upside, my enjoyment of overly sweet porridge was distinctly on the
wane) it was a slow and steady ascent of the Burma road to descend to the
Speyside Way. The descent passed an estate worker’s house with a truck parked
outside, sporting a roof mounted searchlight. On better days I might have been
tempted to shine a powerful torch into their bedroom windows, but today was not
such a day. Those last few km into Aviemore were the hardest of many a trip. Fortunately,
the accommodation was available and the bed was my companion for afternoon. A
foray out for supplies and food was abandoned, with food poisoning now setting
in …….
The rest they say is history with
too much time lost to get through the mountains and onto Montrose before the
cut off.
A fantastic
week, with an unplanned for end.
Until the
next time I get a place on the TGO Challenge then ………